TURN BACK TIME: Fashions Never-Ending Obsession with Nostalgia
Ten days before the new year, I started receiving newsletters from countless fashion magazines titled “Best Looks of the Year,” counting down “unforgettable fashion moments of 2024.” As I swipe through these picture spreads every year, I mainly recognize familiar faces, but this year has brought friends much older than celebrities I watched while growing up. Starting from Zendaya’s 1995 Theirry Mugler armor for Dune: Part Two London Premiere to Elle Fanning’s 1960 Balmain dress for the Golden Globes and the latest, Rihanna’s 2002 Cristian Lacroix pelage look at the British Fashion Awards. Do you still not see the pattern here? For the past year, every red-carpeted blockbuster movie premiere and award night has become a stroll down fashion memory lane featuring Hollywood stars in attires from various decades except the one we live in.
Zendeya Dune PremierRihanna BFAMugler FW 1995Christian Dior Spring 1999
There’s always been a particular “look.” Fashion brings forth an original wave of innovation—a new idea and vision for each cohort. In the 1920s, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel revolutionized women's fashion by introducing "the little black dress," contrasting with the era's frivolous fringes and tassels. Forty years later, André Courrèges built upon this legacy by presenting "the little white dress," a fitting design for the space-age women of his time. Next, in the 90s, Vivienne Westwood brought something to the table that nobody could: Pure punk. Even the 2010s had emoji tights and crystalized black combat boots out of stock, which ultimately became a fit that served many. Maybe the allure of archival looks doesn’t mainly lie in their timeless beauty but in our desire to find a suitable look for today’s world. Actually, it feels so covetous to keep digging in a mine that has already been dug countless times, yet we continue to dig deeper.
2024 was indeed the year of the stylist, as highlighted by The Hollywood Reporter’s annual “Stylists & Stars,” which lists the top 25. This issue brought significant attention to the styling industry, showcasing stylists' vital role in shaping Hollywood’s image. However, the finery climate is changing with names like Law Roach, who has embraced exclusivity and provides customized work for select starlet clients, such as Celine Dion and his styling magnum opus, Zendaya.
Law Roach and Zendaya's collaboration has brought old pieces back into the spotlight, and that may not be entirely new, but it has awakened a long-dormant beauty monster to the modern day. The two have recreated many memorable old looks throughout press tours and other festivities, inspiring numerous stylists to take the same step. It's no surprise that Roach is linked to the rise of archival fashion, having been a vintage shop owner long before becoming a renowned stylist and collector. His “Deliciously Vintage” boutique marked the beginning of his vintage addiction–something he has in common with the 2024 theme of the Met Gala.
Nicole Kidman Balenciaga MetGala24Elle Fanning Golden Globes 23Balenciaga 1951Andre Courreges 1984
With its keynote “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion” and dress code “The Garden of Time,” the latest Met Gala was the perfect moment to commemorate the year’s never-ending obsession with nostalgia. Plus, nostalgia has never been pricier, which in the bigger picture shows how archival looks bring out a pretty rare breed of exclusivity and proprietary. Wearing a runway piece before its debut is one thing, but displaying a 60-year-old piece using industry connections is the new frontier—or perhaps old is the right word.
Ultimately, fashion must balance the archive and ultramodern without sacrificing the concept of creating new heirlooms for future creatives and securing sustainability through redefining timelessness for our generation. If not, how will the new kids ever truly feel nostalgic?
Written by Leyla Kaptanoglu a GLITCH Magazine Contributor